To be a contender for the title of Spain’s craziest fiesta in a country full of crazy fiestas (err…throwing a goat off a bell tower anyone? The world’s biggest tomato fight? Running through the city chased by a load of bulls?), Las Fallas has got to be pretty special. Derived from the Latin world for torch, the term “Las Fallas” (Falles in Valencian) is used to describe three things.
Firstly, the Fallas communities, neighbourhood groups in Valencia each with their own customs and traditions, made up of falleros who share a sense of community and work together on local projects.
Secondly, the Fallas sculptures (covered with figures called ninots), huge gravity-defying structures made of wood and papier-mâché which the Fallas communities spend much of the year constructing for the festival. These sculptures are not only engineering masterpieces, but also works of art depicting current events and public figures, and are usually deeply satirical, humorous and a little bit saucy!And thirdly, the Fallas festival which takes place each year in March, the culmitation of which is called La Cremá, a massive street party on Saint Joseph’s Day (19 March) where all the sculptures are stiffed with fireworks and simultaneously burned to the ground. The festival is thought to have its origins in pagan rituals celebrating the onset of spring, but nowadays the focus is placed firmly on celebrating Valencian culture….and having obscene amounts of fun of course.
So, I’ve sold the idea to you and your pyromaniac side is just itching to get down there and set fire to something. Well, the good news is that La Cremá is merely the cathartic end to the festival, the entertainment actually begins way before then.
Starting when the festival queen (fallera mayor) is chosen in January, there are exhibitions, parades and partying, although things really get into full swing from 15-19 March. Each day begins at 8am with La Despertá, where brass bands march around the city accompanied by falleros throwing firecrackers powerful enough to set off car alarms, thus adding to the din. At 2pm the fallera mayor opens La Mascletá , a deafening and literally earthshaking firecracker show, and every night there are visual firework displays called Els Castells, culminating in the Nit de Foc on the 18th. All the Fallas infantiles for the kids) are set up around the city in La Planta on the 15th, followed by different daytime carnivals (Cabalgata del Fuego on the 19th) Then at midnight on the 19th (10pm for the Fallas infantiles) all the Fallas are set alight for La Cremá and the city turns into an open-air club, with added explosions, fire and general mayhem.
From the moment I stepped off the bus last year to see a toddler throwing firecrackers around with his parents watching proudly on, to drunkenly dodging the smouldering remains of the ninots on the way to find our ride home, I had a fantastic time and would recommend Las Fallas as an experience not to be missed. I you fancy going this year, the bad news is all the best accommodation will have filled up months ago, such is the festival’s popularity. Book your travel and accommodation ASAP and try to find somewhere fairly central as getting into town is a nightmare: roads are blocked off and taxis extremely elusive. Don’t even think about renting a car! Local business take advantage of the festivities to hike their prices, so come expecting to spend spend spend.
Get to your spot early if you want a good view of any of the scheduled events as the crowds can be mental, and during La Cremá some intersections are closed off for safety as the Fallas are burnt, so be careful not to get cut off!
Watch out for firecrackers (petardos). If your see one flung your way either leg it in the other direction or at least cover your ears, as these things can be pretty powerful. Finally, wear comfortable shoes and an outfit you don’t mind getting wrecked, as you’re guaranteed to get covered in alcohol, ashes and whatever else whilst you’re having all that fun!
